Inside St. Sebaldus Church

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These photos are from inside St. Sebaldus Church in Nürnberg, Germany.  Besides being another lovely old church, this one has special meaning for me.  This is the church Maria Sybilla Merian attended, and where her second daughter, Dorothea, was baptised.
When I learned that the statue of St. Sebaldus is easy to recognize because he is holding a church, I had to photograph it!
I was also interested in the very old baptismal font in the church.  It is the original one, made around 1430, and is the one used when Dorothea was baptised.  How awesome is that!  When our country is less than 300 years old, I just find it incredible to see something still in existence and over 550 years old–something older than the US.  (And as luck would have it, on this particular day, a baby had just been baptised when I entered the church.  You can see the photographer snapping pictures of the family.

Artists’ Pigments

The sole reason I toured Albrecht Dürer's house in Nürnberg, Germany, was because I had read there was a display of his paint and where it came from.  Now Dürer lived 170 years before Maria Sybilla Merian did, but things were slow to change back in those days; I figured the source of paints would still be the same.  I had already spent two and a half years researching the old paint recipes to find a few which would be usable in the classroom during the study of art in the Middle Ages.  (I was bored with the time period and needed a way to "liven it up" 'cause it's a sure bet that if the teacher's already bored, the students will be triply bored, and the last thing we need is bored kids in the classroom.)

I was delighted to see that what I had read was confirmed here.

pigments used by artists at Dürer Museum

The blue pigment in the picture on top is azurite; the powdered form was kept on the half shell, it's source is the azurite rock behind.  The red pigment was new to me–it is called Drachenblut, or Dragon's Blood.  It comes from a red resin from the fruit of a palm tree found in Asia.

pigments used by artists

The center picture shows a pigment made from roots of the Rubia plant–also new to me–on the left.  On the right is a dish of cochineal bugs which, when crushed, make a purply-red pigment.  (And, yes, the dried bugs do stink if you get your nose too close to them!)

pigments used by artists

The bottom picture shows the beautiful bright red pigment derived from Cinnabar rocks from Spain.

One added note:  most rocks lose their color when crushed and cannot be used to make paint.  Those that do retain their color make very lovely paint, indeed.

Chörlein

This bit of architechture is a famous landmark in Nürnberg, Germany; it is called a chörlein.  This one was built in 1513.  Looks to me like an elaborate 3-sided bay window held up by an elaborate stone column attached to the side of the house.  This house is where the pastor lived.  
The other building in the background is the St. Sebaldus church, the one Maria Sybilla Merian Graf attended, and where her second daughter, Dorothea, was baptised.

The Frauenkirche on the Market Square

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The large Frauenkirche (Church of Our Lady) on the Market Square is something to see, especially at noon.  As music plays, doors below the clock open to reveal a statue representing the Holy Roman Emperor.  Then figures representing seven electors come out, bow to the emperoror and go around the emperor three times before disappearing again inside.  This is called the walk of the little men, or the Mannleinlaufen.  The clock then chimes the time, after which the doors close.
The clockworks were made 1506-1509.  I find it amazing that they are 500 years old!  And still working!  The clockworks were constructed by Joerg Heuss; Sebastian Lindenast made the figures.  During WWII the clockworks were kept in the Art Bunker under the castle, which is why they survived intact.
I find it fascinating that Maria Sybilla Merian heard and saw this same clock and figures in action.   

Before Streets Had Names

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In the old city of Nurnberg there are a number of these figures, each one placed on the corner of a building at a street intersection.  They are not only lovely sculptures, but sculptures with a purpose.  Well, they served a purpose back in history…back when city streets did not have any names.  These figure served as reference points for people trying to find a certain shop or house.
It's another indication of how much larger our cities and towns are today.  Can you imagine trying to give anyone directions today without using street names?  Or numbers?

The Beautiful Fountain

image of fancy spire of Schoenebrunnen — Beautiful FountainThe tall fancy spire you see above the market booths is the Schoenebrunnen, or the Beautiful Fountain, and is very aptly named!  It is the most beautiul fountain I’ve ever seen.  And probably the tallest.  The workmanship that went into making this is absolutely incredible.

detail of the Beautiful Fountain, SchoenebrunnenHere is a close up of this fountain.  The photo was taken through the fancy wrought iron fence which encloses it.

Man touching a golden ring on the fountain's ironworkThe golden ring is supposed to bring good luck when you turn it.  Yes, it does move!  Of course, you have to find it first, and that is no easy task!  The ornate iron work is such that the ring blends in beautifully, and even the change of color does not stand out immediately.

another section of ironwork with a second iron ringAnd, unbeknownst to a lot of tourists, there is an iron ring on the other side of the fountain.  Some of the local people asked me if I knew about this one, and when I said no, they beckoned me to this side and said that turning this one ensures that you have children.  Apparently especially important after the plague which wiped out so many. Can you find it?

A Walking Tour of the Old Town

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The first thing I did was to take a walking tour just to get a basic idea of where things were and what there was.  Supposedly a 2 1/2 hour tour, ours lasted another hour because our guide took the time to answer questions as well as adding more information when the group showed more interest.  Walking around the town also showed us very quickly just how steep the terrain was going up to the base of the castle.  And from the base on up to the castle grounds was even more so!

We started at the Hauptmarkt, or the main market area.
The photo on the left shows the booths set up by the vendors.  They filled the entire large otherwise open square.  This square is the main market area of ancient Nürnberg where farmers brought their fruits, vegetables, eggs, animals, etc. to sell on market days.  As you can see, this still occurs (but without the animals).
The twin spires in the background are part of St. Sebaldus church, the church Maria Sybilla Merian Graf attended and where her second daughter, Dorothea, was baptized.  The family lived just a short way up the hill from this church.
The white stuff in the photo on the right is white asparagus.  This was the season for fresh asparagus and many of the sellers had it for sale.

Entering the old city of Nürnberg

At last I get to see what it is like to be in a city surrounded by its old protective walls.  (These walls were completed in 1452.)
The photo on the left is of the entrance I used most of the time when entering and leaving the old original part of the city since I stayed in a small pension outside of these walls not far from the train station.
The photo on the right is a typical view of what the walls look like from inside the old city.  The square towers each had a door which provided access to the top of the wall.  Here it was easy to imagine men patrolling the covered walkways and keeping a close watch on any activity outside these walls. 

Train to Nürnberg

On to Nürnberg, the next city where Maria Sybilla Merian Graf lived.

I took the slow train that stopped many times along the way just so I could relax and enjoy the trip.  I love traveling by train.  It's a time when you can let your thoughts wander and at the same time watch the changing scenery.   I spent the time enjoying it so much I forgot to take pictures––except for one visually interesting train station called Langenprozelten. 

Coins from Frankfurt 1647-1658

I soon became curious as to what kind of money was around during Maria Sybilla's lifetime; the hunt was on!
This coin was minted in Frankfurt in 1647, the year Maria Sybilla Merian was born.  Its denomination is that of an Albus.  Having never heard of that before, I began to research to try to get an idea of how much it was worth at the time.  That, I soon discovered, is practically impossible to do.  Not only were different coins minted in different cities and different areas, but there were also coins that were called by the same name that had a slightly different values.  Throw in exchange rates and it all gets very confusing.  Now add the fact that there is very little written about what things cost back then.  I have no more idea of what it's worth now than I did when I started!
These coins were given to the parents of newborns when the baby was baptized.   The side with writing on it says: "Be true until death and I will give you the crown of life." 
This coin was minted  to celebrate the coronation of Leopold I as Holy Roman Emperor.  The coronation and celebration was held in Frankfurt when Maria Sybilla Merian was eleven years old.  The inscription is in Latin; the date given is Ausust 1, 1658. 
I find it fascinating that these coins are still in existence!