Tag Archives: Travel

A Royal Palace, A Caterpillar

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Royal Palace in Amsterdam

What is now a royal palace in Amsterdam, the Netherlands, was built in the 1600s as an impressive City Hall.

The unusual caterpillar was found in the jungle of Suriname, South America.

What could possibly connect these two things on different continents an ocean apart? Not royalty, not even someone from the wealthy upper class; it was a little old lady named Maria Sybilla Merian (1647-1717), a lady well known in her time for her studies of caterpillars and their metamorphosis into butterflies or moths; and for her painted illustrations of them.

Having seen a few specimens of unusual butterflies in the collections of wealthy collectors, Maria decided to travel to South America to discover what kind of caterpillars became these beautiful butterflies. Her friends and acquaintances were horrified and tried their best to dissuade her. They argued that 1 she was too old to make a two-month sea voyage (at 50 she WAS old), 2 the trip was too dangerous (it WAS dangerous, what with storms, pirates, and probably inadequate food), 3 she certainly could not travel without a man accompanying her (she had already done so twice), and 4 the cost was prohibitive (it really WAS a lot). Reason number four was the only one she was concerned about. She made plans and apparently sold everything she owned except her art supplies.

When her friend, the mayor of Amsterdam, realized that Maria was determined to go, and probably that she could also bring him some new specimens for his own collection, he persuaded the city fathers to help fund her trip.

Upon her return to Amsterdam two years later she was invited to exhibit some of the insects and other small creatures she brought back with her. The exhibit was a huge success since these were things most people in Europe had never seen before. They were amazed.

You can read all about this and more in my book Chasing Caterpillars, the Life and Times of Maria Sybilla Merian. It can also be ordered here on this website.

Missouri Confluence Conference

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Saturday, November 5, 2011 a friend and I left early, early in the morning to drive to St. Charles Community College for the Missouri Society of Children’s Book Writers and Illustrators’ Missouri Confluence Conference 2011 in Cottlesville, MO (near St. Charles).
Now that mouthful is out of the way, I have to say that the SCBWI conference was well worth attending. I definitely enjoyed hearing writer Suzanne Morgan Williams (author of Bull Rider)! She had lots of good stuff to give; I took lots of notes. One thing that resonated with me was when she was given the advice to just do research on the internet instead of traveling to where her subject lived and worked, she didn’t agree and went anyway. That’s me right now––trying to raise funds to travel to Surinam to do research for my book about Maria Sybilla Merian, a VIP when it comes to early science. And while we, as writers, always hear “Write what you know,” Suzanne says, “Write what you want to know.”

Suzanne believes that stories and books choose YOU to write about them. Her questions to the conference attendees are:

  • What story, what book, what technique is trying to get your attention?
  • What story speaks to you?
  • What creative places do you need to explore? (Ah, Surinam continues to beckon….)

A useful tip for finding an agent or editor came from Quinlan Lee, an editor with Adams Literary:

  • Look at the acknowledgement page of a book on your subject to find who was the editor/agent.
  • Write the editor or agent mentioned there, saying “I know you edited/agented this book; I think you might be interested in mine.” Then give your pitch.

Don’t think I’ve ever thought of actually mentioning that. Hmmm….

There was so much more; it’s all still whirling around in my brain. Thank goodness I took notes!

Inside the Old Walls of Nürnberg

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cobblestone street in Nürnberg

The first photo shows the cobblestone street––notice the width of the street––and a modern wall that is boundary of someone's house/yard today.

outer wall of old city walls in Nürnberg

The second photo gives a better look at the outer wall.  The tower has the door which is an entrance to the upper walkway of the wall.  Here I can imagine the men, whose duty it was to defend the city, walking their assigned stretch and keeping a close surveillance of any activity outside the city.

Entering the old City of Nürnberg

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OutsideWallDoorInsideTheWallEnterCity
This is one of the more interesting entrances to the old city.  It curves inside the wall and is more like a tunnel.  You can see the curve in the middle photo.  The third photo shows the exit into the city, but it also gives a feel of how dark it would have been without lights.
Most of the old German cities have only a small section of their old wall remaining, due to the horrific bombing of World War II.  Some tore down remaining walls because the openings were too small to allow fire trucks into the old section, or they felt they needed to widen the streets for modern traffic.  I'm so glad that Nürnberg did not do this; being enclosed within a city wall is the only way you can get a feel for the size both of the city and the thickness and height of the wall.  It emphasizes the fact that everything is within walking distance, and helps give a feel to life "back then."
I was awed to think that both Albrecht Dürer and Maria Sylabilla Merian walked this town and through this entrance.

Washing Your Hands?

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old German stand for washing fingers

Old German washstand for washing fingers,
not hands, before eating.

Shown here is one style of what we would call an old washstand.  These were used in Germany in the 1600’s for washing your fingers before eating.  Yes, I did say fingers instead of hands. You didn’t wash both hands, instead you washed only the first two fingers and thumb of each hand.  No housewife wanted to waste water, and the first two fingers and thumb is all you use when eating. (Notice next time you eat…this is true!)   And, I’m sure that if you are the one who has to go outside with a bucket, draw the water from a well, and then lug it inside to use, you don’t want to be making a lot of trips to the well.

Inside St. Sebaldus Church

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St.SebaldusInsideSt.SebBaptism
These photos are from inside St. Sebaldus Church in Nürnberg, Germany.  Besides being another lovely old church, this one has special meaning for me.  This is the church Maria Sybilla Merian attended, and where her second daughter, Dorothea, was baptised.
When I learned that the statue of St. Sebaldus is easy to recognize because he is holding a church, I had to photograph it!
I was also interested in the very old baptismal font in the church.  It is the original one, made around 1430, and is the one used when Dorothea was baptised.  How awesome is that!  When our country is less than 300 years old, I just find it incredible to see something still in existence and over 550 years old–something older than the US.  (And as luck would have it, on this particular day, a baby had just been baptised when I entered the church.  You can see the photographer snapping pictures of the family.

Artists’ Pigments

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The sole reason I toured Albrecht Dürer's house in Nürnberg, Germany, was because I had read there was a display of his paint and where it came from.  Now Dürer lived 170 years before Maria Sybilla Merian did, but things were slow to change back in those days; I figured the source of paints would still be the same.  I had already spent two and a half years researching the old paint recipes to find a few which would be usable in the classroom during the study of art in the Middle Ages.  (I was bored with the time period and needed a way to "liven it up" 'cause it's a sure bet that if the teacher's already bored, the students will be triply bored, and the last thing we need is bored kids in the classroom.)

I was delighted to see that what I had read was confirmed here.

pigments used by artists at Dürer Museum

The blue pigment in the picture on top is azurite; the powdered form was kept on the half shell, it's source is the azurite rock behind.  The red pigment was new to me–it is called Drachenblut, or Dragon's Blood.  It comes from a red resin from the fruit of a palm tree found in Asia.

pigments used by artists

The center picture shows a pigment made from roots of the Rubia plant–also new to me–on the left.  On the right is a dish of cochineal bugs which, when crushed, make a purply-red pigment.  (And, yes, the dried bugs do stink if you get your nose too close to them!)

pigments used by artists

The bottom picture shows the beautiful bright red pigment derived from Cinnabar rocks from Spain.

One added note:  most rocks lose their color when crushed and cannot be used to make paint.  Those that do retain their color make very lovely paint, indeed.

Chörlein

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Chlörlein
Chlörlein
This bit of architechture is a famous landmark in Nürnberg, Germany; it is called a chörlein.  This one was built in 1513.  Looks to me like an elaborate 3-sided bay window held up by an elaborate stone column attached to the side of the house.  This house is where the pastor lived.  
The other building in the background is the St. Sebaldus church, the one Maria Sybilla Merian Graf attended, and where her second daughter, Dorothea, was baptised.

The Frauenkirche on the Market Square

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FrauenkircheMannleinEnd
The large Frauenkirche (Church of Our Lady) on the Market Square is something to see, especially at noon.  As music plays, doors below the clock open to reveal a statue representing the Holy Roman Emperor.  Then figures representing seven electors come out, bow to the emperoror and go around the emperor three times before disappearing again inside.  This is called the walk of the little men, or the Mannleinlaufen.  The clock then chimes the time, after which the doors close.
The clockworks were made 1506-1509.  I find it amazing that they are 500 years old!  And still working!  The clockworks were constructed by Joerg Heuss; Sebastian Lindenast made the figures.  During WWII the clockworks were kept in the Art Bunker under the castle, which is why they survived intact.
I find it fascinating that Maria Sybilla Merian heard and saw this same clock and figures in action.